Taylor Swift filmed the Begin Again video in Paris in 2012. The video is quiet, autumnal, and shot in locations that feel genuinely Parisian rather than performatively so. I went to find every one of them.

The Pont des Arts features in the opening sequence. In 2012 the bridge still had its famous padlocks. They were removed in 2015, when the weight of the locks had become structurally concerning. The bridge is now covered in plexiglas panels and the lock tradition is officially discouraged, though people continue.

The Square du Vert-Galant is the tip of the Île de la Cité, the oldest part of Paris, where an ancient willow tree hangs over the water. This is where the clip pauses longest. It is one of the calmer spots in the center of the city, particularly on weekday mornings when the tourist traffic is light.

The Café La Palette in the 6th arrondissement is where Taylor Swift sits alone at an outdoor table in the video. It is a real cafe that has been operating since 1903 and is a favorite of artists and gallery workers from the nearby Saint-Germain area. I went to film outside it and was asked not to by the staff. Taylor Swift, apparently, had different treatment.

The Jardin du Palais Royal, where she walks under the arches, is one of the most underrated spaces in Paris. It is directly behind the Louvre but receives a fraction of the tourist traffic. The garden is quiet, the arcades are beautiful, and the Colonne de Buren in the courtyard, the striped columns, is one of the most photographed art installations in the city.

Maison Kitsune, where she shops in the video, was extremely welcoming when I visited. The staff knew immediately what I was looking for and pointed me to the exact location of the shot. If you are a Taylor Swift fan visiting Paris, they will know why you are there.