Montevideo in winter, a stadium that hosted the first World Cup, and empanadas eaten on a rooftop in the cold. Uruguay is the destination most travelers skip. They are wrong.
I had one day in Montevideo. Here is exactly what I did, what I ate, what surprised me, and what I would change if I went back.
Estadio Centenario in Montevideo hosted the very first FIFA World Cup in 1930. I went inside on a quiet Monday morning and essentially had the whole place to myself.
I took the Buquebus ferry from Buenos Aires to Montevideo on the coldest day of the year. Here is everything that went right and one thing that went very wrong on the return.
