Fortaleza is not the first city that comes to mind when people think of Brazil. Most visitors head straight to Rio or Sao Paulo. But the fish market in Fortaleza might be one of the best food experiences I had in the entire country.
I went with two friends I met at the hostel, Leticia and Jessica. We took a taxi to Mercado dos Peixes, a market right on the coast where vendors sell fresh seafood and cook it on the spot. The moment we arrived I understood why locals come here. The fish was unloaded that morning. Everything was fresh.
We picked out a large batch of shrimp and found a table directly in front of the ocean. No restaurant in Paris has a view like that for any price. Back home I am always in a rush between places. Here, the pace was completely different. Nobody was in a hurry. The shrimp were salted and fried right in front of us and the smell alone was worth the trip.
The way they eat shrimp here is not how we do it in Europe. You eat the whole thing, skin included, crunchy and hot. My friends showed me the technique and I was convinced after the first bite. They also brought us a side of rice with a smoky, deep flavor and beans mixed in.
The final bill was around 55 to 60 Brazilian Reais. That is roughly 10 US dollars. For a massive plate of freshly cooked shrimp, a full side dish, and a table looking out over the Atlantic Ocean.
Go to Mercado dos Peixes before any restaurant in Fortaleza. This is how the locals eat and it costs almost nothing.
