Some of the best moments on a street art tour have nothing to do with street art.

The Feminist Murals of the 13th

The 13th arrondissement has long been a site for politically charged public art. On this walk, I documented murals honoring Simone Veil — the French politician and Holocaust survivor who fought for the legalization of abortion in France — and Ruth Bader Ginsburg, the American Supreme Court Justice. Both women painted large, on building walls, in a neighborhood that takes its public art seriously.

Mathgoth Gallery

Mathgoth Gallery is one of the most respected street art galleries in Paris, dedicated exclusively to urban art and its intersection with contemporary culture. On this visit I arrived on a Monday. The gallery was closed. A lesson I share with everyone: always check opening hours before making the trip.

The gallery is worth returning for — when it is open.

The Man with the Toy Car

The best moment of this entire day had nothing to do with galleries or murals. On a quiet street in the 13th, I met a 74-year-old man who has spent years covering his car and quad bike with toys, trinkets, and decorations — hundreds of them, attached to every surface. He does it to raise funds and awareness for children with disabilities.

He has no social media. No press coverage. He just drives around Paris making children smile.

That is street art in its purest form.