Snow in Paris happens once or twice a year at most. When it does, the city transforms in a way that even people who have lived here for years stop to stare at. I grabbed my camera and went to the Champ de Mars the morning after a January snowfall.

The first thing I noticed was the absence of the usual crowd of vendors and scammers around the Eiffel Tower. The snow had cleared them out entirely. The lawns of the Champ de Mars were white and almost empty, with the iron structure rising out of a scene that looked more like a painting than a real place.

Walking on the paths was an exercise in patience. The snow had begun to melt in the morning sun, leaving a layer of ice under the surface in the shaded areas. I walked slowly and still managed to slip twice. Comfortable flat shoes are essential for a snowy Paris walk. Boots with any grip are better.

The tourists who were there had the right idea. Everyone was taking photos. Everyone was slow. Nobody was in a hurry, which is the opposite of the usual Eiffel Tower experience. The snow created a kind of collective pause that Paris rarely allows itself.

The moment I had been waiting for came at 5:20pm. At that point in winter the sky had already turned dark blue, and the golden lights of the Eiffel Tower switched on. The contrast between the white snow on the ground, the blue dusk, and the warm illumination of the tower was one of the more beautiful things I have seen in ten years of living in this city.

If you are in Paris during a snowfall, drop whatever you had planned and go to the Champ de Mars. Bring warm layers, wear flat boots, and get there before the snow turns to slush. The window is usually only a few hours.